A Beginner's Complete Guide to Choosing a Wig Base
- Written by Lordhair Team
- Nov 25, 2021
- |
- 52 min read
When it comes to choosing a men's hair system, the biggest puzzle you might be facing is - where on earth do I start with all this choice? It's almost like the choice is overwhelming. We understand how daunting the process is for men who have only recently discovered the power of mens wigs for baldness. At Lordhair, we want to help you find the best hair system and have broken things down for you to make your choice much easier.
We have broken down the process of choosing a hair system into its two basic components - the toupee base, and the toupee hair. In this complete guide, we will take you through all you need to know when it comes to selecting a base and finding it on our website.
Rest assured that whether you choose a lace base toupee, thin skin toupee, mono base toupee, or don't even know what all these words mean... by the end of this hair system base ultimate guide, you will know which type of base you should pick!
Did you know? Lordhair not only makes realistic men's wigs, but also has plenty of hair systems for women too!
Some of the question's we'll cover in this guide include:
- How to choose the hair system base size?
- How to create a realistic men's wig
- Men's wigs for different baldness patterns
- How to cut a hair system base?
- Where to buy a toupee base?
- Best hair system for different lifestyles
and more...
Chapter 1: Why is choosing a base important?
Choosing the right base for your men's toupee before anything else is the most important step, there are a few reasons for this, including:
- Some hairstyles don't suit certain bases
- Bases have different lifespans
- Some bases don't suit certain knotting methods (how the hair is tied on to the base)
- Some toupee bases don't suit certain hair densities
- How realistic a base looks depends on the base material
Chapter 2: How to choose a hair system base?
When it comes to ordering a men's toupee, you have essentially three options, we'll take you through each one during this post:
- Choose a stock hair replacement system
- Choose a custom hair system with a pre-designed base ready for you to edit
- Be a master of design and create your own base (ultra-pro level or special needs like theatre)
So, if you want to level-up your hair game, then carry on reading and find out exactly what base is best for you, and how to get it!
Chapter 3: Base Types
There are different base types, each with particular advantages and disadvantages and certain types of hair system bases are suitable for certain types of activities, and suitable for certain types of hairstyles.
When you see words such as men's lace wig, lace front wig, Swiss lace toupee, mono top toupee, or any other type of toupee base material, this all refers to the type of toupee base. If it all sounds confusing, we will break down the material types.
#3.1 Thin Skin
Often called a skin base toupee, a thin skin hair system is essentially a thin piece of transparent plastic (think similar to plastic wrap but thicker). It is made of polyurethane, also known as poly or PU. A thin skin base is one later of pure polyurethane and is not to be confused with NPU (we'll get to the difference between all these confusing words in just a second).
Since it's incredibly delicate when removing and cleaning it you also have to be extremely careful not to rip it. Lordhair hair systems have a selection of thin skin bases at different thicknesses, measured in terms of how thick they are. 0.03mm, for example, means that the thickness of the material is a minute 0.03mm thick.
The 0.03mm is the thinnest yet, and literally feels and looks like you're not wearing anything. This is what makes it one of our most popular men's hair systems. Since it is so thin, most wearers wear it for the whole duration before discarding it (1-2 months). This cuts out the fuss of removal and cleaning.
Before you recoil in horror... "you mean you don't clean a hair system?!". Don't worry, the hair system is usually cleaned whilst attached to your head in the shower. This makes even the maintenance feel like the experience of real hair.
The 0.08mm and 0.10mm are thicker and therefore more durable than the 0.03mm and for wearers who want to get slightly longer wear and are not concerned with removing and cleaning every two months, then it is a very popular option.
Other names of this type of base material include thin skin, transparent PU, transparent skin and transparent poly. Ultra-thin skin refers specifically to the 0.03mm thick base but is simply made of polyurethane. Super skin is also the name given to the base type according to it's thickness 0.06-0.10mm, and again, is made purely of polyurethane.
Knotting methods suitable for a thin skin toupee base type:
- V-loop
- Single-split
- Double-split
- Injected
Not sure what knotting method means? Continue reading to the section on 'knotting methods'.
Knotting method simply refers to the way the human hair is tied onto the base.
Hair system density compatibility for skin bases:
- 0.03mm skin = light to medium-light
- 0.08mm skin = light to medium
- 0.10mm = light to heavy
Not sure what hair density means? Carry on reading to find out to the full section on 'hair density'.
Density means how 'thick' and 'heavy' the hair is. In other words, how many strands are knotted on to the base per square centimetre.
Popular hair system skin bases
Let's have a look at some of the most popular skin base toupees in the Lordhair range:
#3.2 Lace
A men's lace wig is a hair system that has netting material, usually made from French or Swiss lace, onto which hair is knotted. A French lace men's toupee is slightly more robust and longer-lasting than a Swiss lace toupee. A toupee lace base is one of the most breathable types of hair systems, great for men who experience a lot of sweat.
French lace or Swiss Lace Toupee?
Both of these men's lace toupees have the advantage of being very breathable, perfect for those worried about sweating in a hair system. Out of the two, French lace is more durable and can be removed for cleaning more easily, thus can last up to 5 months if looked after very carefully. The advantage of a Swiss lace hair system is that it is incredibly natural and undetectable!
Knotting methods suitable for men's full lace wigs:
- Single-split
- Double-split
- Double
- Single
Hair system density compatibility for lace bases:
- French lace = light to heavy
- Swiss lace = light to medium light
Popular full lace toupee bases
Let's have a look at some of the most popular lacebase toupees in the Lordhair range:
Lace Front Toupee
A popular choice for many is a men's lace front toupee, with the rest of the base being made from another material, to increase the sturdiness, whilst looking natural at the front.
Whether you choose a Swiss lace front toupee or French lace front toupee, men's lace front toupees are one of the most searched for types of hair systems.
Lace Front Wigs for black men
A common question asked is, "can I find lace wigs for black men?". Yes, in fact, when it comes to Afro wigs (or aka weaves), the main difference is in the hair, not the base.
#3.3 Mono
What is a mono hair system?
Mono-filament (mono for short) looks similar to a lace hair system, except that lace is made out of fibrous material, mono uses a plastic material to create netting. Therefore it is even more sturdy than lace, whilst at the same time being very breathable, due to the holes in the netting.
A mono base toupee is often referred to as a mono top toupee, because mono is usually used on the top area (i.e. the crown), and not at the sides because it doesn't create a natural edge, unlike a lace or skin front.
Mono is split into the following:
Fine welded mono
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Creates a natural appearance good for the front hairline
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Breathable (good for those who sweat)
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Durable
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Suitable hair density = light to heavy
The Lordhair Icon is full a fine welded mono toupee
Fine mono
- Most commonly used on the crown
- Breathable (good for those who sweat)
- Durable
- Suitable hair density = light to heavy
Super fine mono
- Has smaller holes than other mono types
- More delicate
- Suitable hair density = light to medium
Popular Mono Top Toupees
Skin, Thin Skin, PU, NPU, Poly, Polyurethane, Gauze - what is the difference?
As we discussed above, thin skin is a layer of pure polyurethane (aka PU/poly). But there are a few other distinctions to discuss to make things clearer.
Thin skin (often called skin or PU) is called thin skin because of its thinness as well as the fact that the material is made of polyurethane. When one refers to skin or thin skin it means polyurethane that has been molded to be ultra-thin, like plastic wrap that is incredibly soft and delicate. Thin skin is used for hair pieces that are 0.03-0.10mm thick.
Other materials may use polyurethane but are not thin skin, because they are not thin enough to classify as a thin skin and may be mixed with other materials. In essence, polyurethane is the name of the material (which is a type of glue before it dries), whereas thin skin is the name given to the base type, which is made of pure polyurethane.
There are two other types of base material that use polyurethane. Let's have a look at other PU base toupees.
#4 Gauze
Google the word 'gauze' and you'll see images of the good ol' medical bandage material that you use when you fracture your arm (let's hope you've never actually fractured your arm nor had to use gauze other than for a hair system!).
In fact, the gauze used on a men's toupee base is very thin, almost like a mix between a silk-like fiber and linen-like material. Gauze on it's own does not allow for hairs to be knotted on to it since it is does not hold its structure. Whenever gauze is used it is made of two layers - a layer of gauze and a layer or polyurethane. Often, however, the name given to this base material when you see it on the website is simply gauze. It is in fact PU with gauze (aka polyurethane with gauze, aka skin with gauze), but the PU is often eliminated from the name!
PU with gauze is made by first coating a layer of polyurethane onto the gauze, knotting the hair and then coating a layer of poly again for sturdiness.
It's an incredibly robust and long-wearing material and it great for sticking tape to because the poly is super easy to clean, unlike like lace or mono from which it is less easy to remove the glue that gets in between the lace or mono holes.
This type of base material is also known as skin with gauze or glass skin in addition to PU with gauze, or simply gauze.
Popular PU with Gauze Base Toupees
#5 NPU
NPU is made of three layers: a layer of either lace or mono; a layer of polyurethane; and a layer of gauze. NPU is often mistaken for PU. In fact, NPU and PU are different. NPU contains a layer of PU (aka polyurethane) with an additional two layers of material - the above-mentioned gauze and lace/mono.
Many hair system retailers themselves may not have correctly written descriptions and so it leads to inevitable confusion when considering which material to choose. That's why it's important to seek help from a reputable seller like Lordhair.
When it comes to choosing the material for the base, in fact what you want to know more than anything is the benefit of that material over others.
NPU is sturdy and easy to clean but it is not incredibly realistic when looking closely at the hair from the top. That is why it is often used across the outside edge in what is called a 360 wig or, as in the picture below, on the perimeter at the back, from temple to temple.
The reason NPU is only used on the back here is because often many men want a swept back style that is better suited to a lace front. In brief, NPU will add robustness but don't pick it for the front if you want a sweep back, and don't choose it on the crown if you want the appearance of hair coming from the scalp.
NPU is usually used on the outer edge with mono or lace on the crown and you can find very funky shaped patterns using it, reason being that NPU is one of the best materials for tape to be stuck to because the cleaning is so easy so hair system wearers do not usually put tape on the lace, but on the NPU directly. The fun shapes are to ensure that in the areas where the hairline will split, the base will be mono or lace, other another natural type of material.
Popular NPU Base Toupees
What's a PU perimeter?
A PU perimeter simply means that one of the three polyurethane-containing materials encircles the edge of the hair system (a bit like the white of an egg, the yolk being the crown area!). This could be an NPU perimeter or a PU with gauze perimeter. The difference between the two is very subtle and so many in the industry simply refer to this as a PU perimeter. At Lordhair hairpieces with a 'PU perimeter' refer to simply NPU.
#6 Mixed
Above are all the types of base materials you will find on a toupee hair system. But there are, in fact, dozens of base designs to choose from because most bases are built of a combination of different materials due to their different functionalities, naturalness, and longevity. Therefore, you can find a base perfect for you based on those requirements.
Let's have a look at a few examples of common combinations of base materials on a toupee.
Hair System Skin and Lace Base:
The natural look on the crown of hair coming out of the scalp, with the staggered (aka scalloped) hairline at the front is achieved with a lace front toupee. It is also easy to clean each week (check out this video on weekly maintenance of the front hairline).
The below picture is a primarily skin with lace front toupee, meaning the area of the front hairline from temple to temple has a strip of lace.
The below picture is a primarily skin with lace front toupee, meaning the area of the front hairline from temple to temple has a strip of lace. | The second picture is a lace hair system with a skin perimeter (meaning the outside edge from temple to temple is skin). |
Lordhair Skin and Lace Hair Systems:
Mono Top Skin Toupees:
Combing a mono base toupee with a skin base toupee, these hair systems are popular among those that value a durable and long-lasting hair system, whilst still looking very realistic.
Lordhair Mono and Skin Hair Toupees:
Lace, Skin, and Mono Hair Toupees
Most of these designs are used to incorporate the best of each type of material. For example lace front men's toupees are prized for their natural front hair line that can be swept back. Thin skin toupees are popular for looking like real skin when taking a peek at the crown, even close up. A mono top toupee is one of the most robust types of material and is valued for its long lifespan.
Lordhair lace, skin and mono hair systems:
Chapter 4: Hair System Knotting Methods
AKA ventilation method, this is the method used to tie the hair onto the base. There are a few different ways to tie your shoelaces. As a boy scout you'd have learnt the many different ways to tie knots too, and most likely you'll have learnt that some methods are more robust than others.
When it comes to tying rope to trees, the aesthetic doesn't really matter too much, but when it comes to the intricate art of tying human hair onto a material base to look as though it's coming from a real scalp, the complexity involved is second to none.
How does Lordhair ensure that that hair stays on a base, but doesn't look like your hair is infested with dozens of bugs or lice on your head? The art is in the knotting method!
Check out our full blog post on wig knotting techniques
Let's have a brief look at the different types of hair system knots:
V-loop
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This is were the hair simply is pierced through the base and pulled back out, like how you sew a stitch without closing it. Imagine a V shape, that's how you can remember this type of knot. It's the most natural but most prone to hair fall out as of course it has not been tied. It's also only done on skin bases as other types of bases do not suit this method.
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Used on skin hair system bases.
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Very prone to shedding.
Single-split
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Single-split on a hair system is the most common type of knotting, it is tied in a way the the hair strands separate in an opposite direction and are tied once.
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Used on lace hair systems and skin hair systems.
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Gives the appearance of more voluminous hair.
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Natural appearance with less shedding than a v-loop or single split, but less durable than double or double-split knots.
Double-split
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This is the same as a single-split knot, except that it's tied twice and is even less prone to fall out.
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More noticeable, not used on the front of the base
Single
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A single knot is one that is tied in a way that the tied hairs run in the same direction.
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Gives the appearance of hair running flat on the head and can be combed into any direction
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Not so durable as compared to split knots
Double
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A double knot is the same as a single knot except for the fact it is tied twice.
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Can be combed in any direction.
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Suitable on skin and lace hair systems.
Injected
- The injected hair attachment method is one that "punches" or "clips", or “clamps" strands of hair onto the base. This, again, works with the skin base only but also leaves no trace of knotting and is great for achieving a natural look.
- Two types of injected hair systems: top-injected and flat-injected
- Used on skin base hair systems
Injected hair systems
Do you want to know how to bleach knots on a hair system? Check out our post!
Or watch our detailed video below
>Knotting Methods - Durability and Realism
Let's run down the not types in terms of durability (from most durable to least durable):
- double-split knot
- double knot
- single split knot
- single knot
- v-loop
Now let's break it down by how realistic they look (from most realistic to least realistic)"
- v-loop
- single knot
- single split knot
- double knot
- double-split knot
As you can see, the second list is the inverse of the first. In other words, there is a balance to strike between the two, or if you value one more than the other, you must factor this is when choosing your base and knotting technique. V-loop bases such as the UTS have a typical lifespan of 1-2 months, but when you are wearing them, nothing is comparable in terms of how real it looks!
Hair System Knots: Realistic and Durable
Do you want to prevent excess shedding? Read out using a hair system knot sealer here to help stop shedding and make your toupee last longer.
Chapter 5: Variations of toupee types? How to navigate the Lordhair website
What about all of those product names you see on the site with a hyphen and a letter following the product name? What is a Lordhair Classic-C? What is a Combo-V?
Many hair systems may use a very similar base with a slight alteration or a slightly different hair. This is great for those of you who like a certain base but may want it in a medium density, or prefer the base with clips, for example.
Read our quick cheat sheet below for a quick guide to our product names:
Product Suffix | Meaning |
-C | This means we have sewn clips onto our base - no glue, no tape, no fuss! N.B. This can also mean custom if found under custom hair systems. |
-V | This often means that the front has used the v-loop method instead of the single-split knot. |
-S | Small size, a slightly smaller base size for those who find the regular 8x10" of most of our hairpieces to be too large. |
-FL | Lace front, originally an abbreviation of French lace, hairpieces ending in FL may also be made of other lace materials, but they are all pieces with lace at the front. |
-L | This can also mean lace. |
-M |
Medium. Most of our stock hair systems contact medium-light density hairs, this is the same base but the only difference is the hair density. Read more about wig hair density here. |
-Li | Light. This also refers to the density of the hair, which is a light density. |
-I | Injection. This the name given to our hairpieces that, instead of the usually single or double split, we have used the injection method on the skin parts of the base. The lace areas will still use the original knotting method. |
-VM | This is where we have used a V-loop and medium density hair. |
Chapter 6: How to customize a base
When it comes to choosing a hair system, you may have looked at our website and thought, "they look cool, but I still can't find the right one for me". What can you do? Have no fear, at Lordhair we have dozens upon dozens of different types of base presents that you can pick, that you can edit and onto which you can design any type of hair and hair style.
We call this option a 'custom' option as it's not one of our ready-to-wear, off-the-shelf pieces that you can get tomorrow. We need some time to craft your perfect hair system!
But should you decide you want a mullet or the topper ponytail look, or you simply you have a particular length you like that is longer than the 5" of our stock pieces, then you can absolutely achieve such a look with a custom hair system.
You might also come to realize, you are quite expert in hair system bases and you know exactly what base material you want in a base you have designed yourself. This is also something we accomodate. However, as we've noted throughout the post, certain knot types, certain hairstyles don't suit certain base designs. Therefore, designing your own base really is an expert craft, for the most part you can leave that to us as we've already got dozens of popular bases for you to choose.
Most men wanting to customize will pick our present base designs (we have so many you are bound to find one you like), and customize their hair on top of that. With a preset base design chosen as a custom order, you can still go in and make alterations to your original base, such as adding a scallop front (read below), a different front hairline shape, etc.
3 different options when it comes to getting a Lordhair hair system:
- Choosing a ready-to-wear stock base and hair (best for first-time wearers).
- Choosing an existing base template, and altering it (base size, hair line shape etc.) and customizing the hair from scratch (best for those with specific hair requirements or base preferences).
- Creating your own base design from scratch and customizing the hair (for the expert with several years of hair system experience)..
Within all of these options you have the choice to get a custom hair cut and style by Lordhair, so it arrives at your door ready to put on!
In this section we will discuss all the base aspects you can customize and how to customize them on the website.
#1 Base Size
Definition: Base size means how big or small the material is that you will put on your head.
You need to determine your base size for two reasons:
- STEP 1: Determine the right product type for you → frontal, topper or full cap (read on the find out what these all mean).
- STEP 2: Once you know the product type, determine the exact measurements of your head to pick the right product/customize it.
Different heads are different sizes, and the extent of hair loss is different for different men, so some men need a smaller base size, some men need a larger base size.
"What is my base size?" is the first question to ask when deciding on buying a hair system because it filters which type of products available (a completely bald head, for example, cannot wear a topper, but needs a custom base and custom hair - unless you are going for the shaved side look that is popular these days!).
Determine the Product you Need According to the Base Size
What are the base size options?
This is a little piece of hair that goes at the front of the head.
Good for: men with a receding hairline who only wear to cover the widow's peak.
Where can you get a frontal piece?
- Stock, ready-to-wear frontal hairpieces (immediate delivery)
- Preset base with custom hair frontal hairpieces (up to 3-6 months delivery)
- Lace base frontal
- Skin base frontal
This is a hairpiece which is usually in 8x10", essentially it covers slightly more than the crown and is the most common type of hair loss pattern for men. That's why it is the most popular option and the reason we have so many stock ready-to-wear topper hair systems.
Over half of people need this type of hair system, they will shave the few sparse hairs on the head to stick this with wig glue or wig tape onto the head.
Good for: majority of men, with hair loss on the crown but that still have some hair at the nape and lower sides.
Below is an example of a perfect candidate for a men's hair topper, wearing the UTS (the thinnest skin hair system at 0.03mm)
Where can you get a topper hairpiece?
- Stock topper hairpieces (immediate delivery)
- Preset topper base with custom hair (up to 3-6 months delivery)
- Go directly to the Customize Portal and pick a base (up to 3-6 months delivery)
If you are confused about the many options, contact us TODAY for a customer service rep to assist you personally in finding the right hair system for you.
You can find us via email, Facebook message or Whatsapp!
If your hair loss is relatively extreme but you are not entirely bald (you still have some hair at the nape), a hairpiece that is the same as the topper but slightly larger is probably the best option.
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Good for: men with quite extreme hair loss but some hair at the nape and sides, even if sparse.
Where can you get an oversized hairpiece?
- NO ready-to-wear stock options
- Preset oversize base with custom hair (up to 3-6 months delivery)
Full cap hair system
This one is for completely bald men who want a whole set of hair at the sides and nape too!
Good for: bald men who have no hair but want a full set of hair
Where can you get a full cap hairpiece?
- NO ready-to-wear stock options
- Preset full cap base with custom hair (up to 3-6 months delivery)
Base Sizes for Ready-to-Wear Stock Pieces
Once you've established which of the above types of base you will need (frontal, topper, oversize or full cap), you will know which type of product you will need. Now you know where to go on the website you can think about the exact size of your head. Chances are you might not have hair loss that equates exactly to 8x10", you might need to cut your base slightly.
What can you do if you don't fit the ready-to-wear pieces exactly?
You have two options:
- Buy a stock, ready-to-wear piece but cut the hair system base down to size yourself (or go to a salon for it).
- For for a custom hair topper with the stock base design, but tell us your exact head size and we will cut your base size for you at only $10.
How to Cut a Toupee Base
If you want to know how to cut a hair system base, read our tutorial by clicking the picture below.
We can cut your base to your exact size requirements. Have a look how we do it!
N.B. it's always handy to have your measurements to hand, if you need to get in touch with us, we use this as a reference in helping you find the perfect hair system, (we are always available to help support@lordhair.com with 24hr weekday service!).
Chosen your hair system product type, now let's get the exact head measurements
Now you know if you know whether you need a front, topper or full cap, we can establish
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What is a base template?
A base template as a small mold that you can make yourself at home and post to us. We use this to make a perfect fitting hair system that you don't need to cut, you simply install and go!
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Why send a base template?
If you are finding the process of working out your exact measurements difficult, worried it wont be the right fit or simply don't want the hassle of working it all out, we can take the process off your hands.
You simply create a template once, and we keep it on record to make it to your exact size every time.
What could be more simple?
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How can I make and send a base template?
You make it with plastic wrap and tape (and a few other items), it really is that easy!
Simply tie the plastic wrap to your head, draw the shape you want your base to be on your head, tape it to make a solid base and then cut off the excess. The full tutorial can be watched below!
#2 Base designs
Definition: Base design simply means the combination of different materials put together to create the base. For example if the front is lace and back skin that is a type of design.
When it comes to customizing the unit, as noted above you have a few options. We assume you don't want an off-the-shelf piece. Lets look at the two ways you can create your own hair system.
*Note that actually most people (and absolutely the majority of first-time wearers) find that they can find the perfect stock system and just get us to do the finishing touches with a Lordhair hair cut and style.
Chapter7: Choose a Base preset & customize the hair (most popular)
On our site we have present designs, onto which you can customize the hair in any color, any length, any curl.
1.1 How to select a preset base?
There are two ways:
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Browse all of the custom hair systems for a base that looks good, click on the product, and then customize all the other aspects.
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Click on CUSTOMIZE NOW after selecting the Customize heading on our site to create a totally blank hair system and then under base pick the preset base you want. This is a list of the most popular base presets, if you can't find one that you want, you can get in touch with customer service to help you pick one! You can then make some edits to the preset base and then pick your hair.
2. Design your own base & customize the hair (for pro hair system wearers with specific needs)
About 99% of needs can be met either by picking a stock unit and getting it styled, or by picking a preset base and customizing your hair. There are over 50 different bases to choose from.
For those with very specific needs, you can create your own base, you simply need to type in your requests/instructions when prompted and we'll be able to make it for you!
What if I want a large square piece of hair that I can cut myself?
Your wish is our command! We also make such pieces as some men want to cut up the base to put hair in certain patches or create their own frontal.
A large square piece is something we recommend for seasoned hair system wearers who know what they are doing, or those of you with very special hair loss patterns.
See all of our custom frontal hair here (there is a choice of lace or skin).
#3 Base material color
Definition: hair system base material color is the color of the lace or the tint of the plastic that you choose for your base.
Lace fibers can come in beige to brown colors. Skin base colors go from completely transparent to tinted brown and black. Some darker skin men prefer to choose a dark tinted skin to match their skin better. Most men, no matter their skin color, still usually go for the transparent, non-tinted base color.
When it comes to lace, there is no such thing as a plastic wrap color transparent netting on a men's toupee. So the majority of men go for the beige color lace netting. For brown or yellow skin tones beige is also a popular option and black skin tones suit brown to black lace or mono netting.
https://www.lordhair.com/blog/base_material_color
#4 Density and Base Type
Definition: density is essentially how much hair is squashed onto the hair system. A high density hairpiece has put more strands of hair per cm2 than lighter densities.
One sure-fire way to spot a wig or toupee is by the density. Google is full of memes of 'bad toupees' that are too 'heavy' on the head.
Caucasians, with naturally finer and sparser hair than, say, Indians, will likely need a less dense hair piece.
Older men will also have naturally sparser hair than when they where younger, so in order to look natural it will usually better to choose a toupee hairpiece that reflects this.
Hair density is a choice about the hair, not the base, so why are we talking about it in this 'hair system base ultimate guide', and not our 'hair system hair ultimate guide'?
That's because there are some bases that cannot 'handle' a thick hair density. If you want the heaviest density on the thinnest 0.03mm of skin bases, you might look great for a week, but it may not stand as long as you wish as it is just too heavy and dense for the delicate plastic wrap-like plastic skin. Therefore, making sure the density can bear the base is of upmost importance.
It only really applies to you if you want hair that is is more dense that 'medium'. So if you'd already ruled that out, then most bases are still open to you (except the UTS 0.03mm thin skin).
To summarize, the hair density you choose to look natural depends of a few factors
- Your natural hair density
- Age
- Hair style
- Base material (follow our quick guide below)
If you need a high density base on your hairpiece toupee, then follow our quick guide below:
Check out our detailed post on hair density on different bases here
What are the different types of hair density
Below is an overview of different hair densities.
What type of density is my hair?
How can you tell what you hair density is? If you have sparse hair due to hair loss, looking at your current hair will not help you in determining your hair density. You must consider what would have been your natural hair density before hair loss.
If you have some hair at the nape still you can conduct the following test. If you don't even have to pull your hair to the side and can see scalp, it is due to hair loss and will not be able to use your current hair as an idea of a truly natural hair density. In order to to asses the density of your hair, pull a cluster of about an inch of your hair to the side, if you can see a fair amount of scalp you will have light-medium density hair. If you see little scalp, you will have high density hair. If in between you will have a hair density somewhere in the middle.
What is the best toupee density for me?
In order to fully asses, you can take into consideration your ethnicity and age too. For references follow these rules below:
- Caucasian = extra-light to medium-heavy
- Latin American = light-medium to medium-heavy
- Indian/Arab = medium to heavy
- East Asian = medium to heavy
- Black = medium to heavy
- 50+ = 1 or 2 densities lighter than what you would choose at 20
- For 95+% of wearers (even East Asians etc.) heavy is still too heavy and the majority of wears will go for medium.
- Heavy and extra heavy is usually used for costume/theatrical purposes as opposed to everyday life
If in doubt and you care about a realistic look above all else, go down a density level!
#5 Choosing the Front Contour
Definition: The front contour is extent to which the hairline recedes. Older gentlemen, even who have no real hair loss to speak of, tend to have a slightly receded hairline, and not a dead straight hairline.
When you pick a base design for a custom order, you can actually continue to make adjustments to it, such as the front contour. They come in 4 different styles: C, CC, A, AA. Let's take a closer look.
The CC is the most common type of front contour, used on most of the stock hair systems at Lordhair. Named so because when turned inside out, the base takes on a C shape. On the head, it takes on a straight hair line. The different between the C and CC is that the C has an even straighter look once on the head. The CC is the most popular choice for men in their 20-40's.
CC contour shape
The next most popular contour shape is the A, it has a very slight 'widows peak' look, that does not look extreme but suits those who prefer above all else a natural look. For older men they also often prefer a slight recession as a dead straight hair line may not look real on them.
The Lordhair Hollywood French lace and skin hair system is the only stock hair piece that uses an A-shape, meaning you can get this look in less than a week!
Below is a reference that will tell you what are the common toupee front contour shapes.
How can I choose my front contour?
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Choose the ready-to-wear Hollywood stock hair toupee for an A-shape or any other stock piece for a CC-shape contour.
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Choose a base design in custom hair systems, and then select 'customize' to customize the front contour
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Create a template and post it to us, we will cut the template exactly to the template specifications, so you don't need to worry about choosing the shape. You simply draw the outline of your head, and we'll do the rest!
#6 Scallop Front?
Definition: the design on the edge on the base, that can be cut straight, or 'frilly' (aka with 'zig zags'). The frill or scallop size can be chosen.
A scallop is cut by Lordhair on NPU (that thicker plastic material we presented at the beginning of the article). We DO NOT recommend scallop on thin skin or lace bases, only on bases that have NPU all around the edge, such as the Lordhair Royal (mono crown with NPU perimeter)
The most common selection is, in fact, no scallop and if you are a dab hand, you can cut the edges yourself if you buy a stock hairpiece toupee.
When you buy a lace toupee or skin toupee, you may want to cut a slightly zig-zagged edge to achieve a more natural look at the front. We in fact advise against this as it can impact the lifespan, and it can become more prone to ripping when you remove it to clean. Of course many wearers are delicate and accept the impact this may have on lifespan to achieve their perfect look. But in fact, the hair style will still look great with no scallop too!
To review:
- Scalloped edges are only available/advisable on hair systems with NPU (aka PU, aka poly) around the edge.
- If you don't choose a scalloped edged, the default is no scallop, but you can cut it yourself.
- A scallop (frill or zig-zag) can be cut by yourself, but it's not advisable. If you desire a scallop on the front hairline, it is possible but can impact longevity of the toupee.
Chapter 8: How to create a custom hair system
Have a look at the whole process of just how a custom hair system is created in this exquisitely directed video:
Chapter 9: How to choose a base according to your life style
Now that you have understood all the constituent parts of a hair system, you may still be thinking... "but still, what hair system is best for my lifestyle?"
To answer this question we need to look at: how sweaty your scalp gets; your preference for how natural you look over how long your hairpiece will last; and how much you are willing to spend on a hair system.
Let's break down some important factors:
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#1 Scalp Sweating
- Your natural scalp oiliness
- How much exercise or sport you do
- What climate you live in
If you're forehead often sweats, your scalp likely easily sweats. If you do a lot of sport, your scalp likely sweats. Therefore you should consider a lace hair system over skin or mono (or pick a primarily lace based mixed hairpiece).
If you are not prone to sweating on your scalp, you have the pick of the bunch!
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#2 How much you value realistic look
There is a reason the UTS (ultra-thin skin men's hair system) is one of Lordhair's most popular toupees. It is the least fuss, most natural of our ha